The Bollard Bulletin for March 19, 2025
Pondering death and the universe over a cheeseburger sub
I Could Eat This Every Week!
’Round about the turn of the century, I worked in Casco Bay Weekly’s office on Congress Street and would often forage for cheap lunch downtown. Kinicky’s was a go-to for slices, and I’d walk to a few other indie eateries since lost to time and memory, but occasionally I’d indulge in franchise fast-food — specifically, and exclusively, a D’Angelo’s cheeseburger sub with grilled mushrooms and onions and mustard.
The medium had three burger patties, which struck me as the height of gluttony despite the fact I’d choked down Wendy’s’ Triple before. The trick was the long sub roll; plus, I craved that burnt-beef flavor characteristic of fast-food grills. Freud had a name for this type of desire: Thanatos, the death drive. Ah, mortality — the yummiest bite of all.
In the decades since, maybe once every couple years, I’d get the jones for this sub again and hit another D’Angelo’s for a fix (the downtown one is long gone). Then I found a far superior version at George & Leon’s in Westbrook, a fun family-owned sandwich shop that also has craft beer and seltzers and such.
G&L’s is renowned for its North Shore roast beef sandwich, that melt-in-your-mouth amalgamation of thin-sliced meat, white American cheese, BBQ sauce and mayo inside a grilled onion roll. But don’t sleep on this sub (you can nap after, and probably will). It’s also got three smash patties, but they’re good ones, thicker than a chain’s, plus lettuce/pickles/onions and a toothsome “pub sauce.” At $16, that’s basically three great cheeseburgers for five bucks and change each.
Kiki’s go-to is the Brown Buttah Shroom Sub ($17): a rotating selection of grilled mushrooms with arugula, Swiss or goat cheese, and mayo, served on a sub roll (or a quite delicious gluten-free bun for $3 more). The bold goat cheese and peppery greens cut through and complement the rich earthiness of the buttery fungus. Besides the salad, this is probably the healthiest item on the menu, but even vegans can satisfy their death drive at George’s thanks to the profusion of campy horror-movie stuff all over the place. Life is short, so get a side of fries, too.
Music
Andy’s Old Port Pub
Custom House Gang
7:30 p.m., free (all ages)
Blue Portland Maine
Bess Jacques & The Strays (jazz)
7 p.m., free (21+)
Jazz Sesh hosted by Robben Harris
9 p.m., free (21+)
Byrnes Irish Pub (Bath)
Irish Session (open jam)
6 p.m., free (all ages)
Lenny’s Pub
Lazzlo Family Band (jam rock)
6:30 p.m., free (all ages)
SPACE
Gost, Dead Register (dark synthwave)
8 p.m., $16-$20 (all ages)
Three Dollar Deweys
Justin Federico
6 p.m., free (all ages)
venue directory
Performing Arts
Rosa Lane reads from her poetry collection, Called Back, and engages in conversation with Maine poet Betsy Sholl at Longfellow Books (1 Monument Way, Portland) at 7 p.m. Free. 772-4045. longfellowbooks.com.
Popular astronomer Neil deGrasse Tyson does a one-man show called “Astronomy Bizarre” at Merrill Auditorium (20 Myrtle St., Portland) at 7:30 p.m. Tix: $89. 842-0800. porttix.com.
Portland Stage Co.’s production of Maine playwright Bess Welden’s heartwarming family drama, Madeleines, at Portland Stage (25 Forest Ave.) at 7:30 p.m. Tix: $25-$52. 774-0465. portlandstage.org.